Sunday, October 08, 2006
home safe photos being added!
Well i'm home safe and sound from my adventure ! I have over 1000 photos to sort through so its taking awhile - but i put some up today - hope you enjoy!
this is bear eating deep fried frog in bankock!
Friday, October 06, 2006
Shopping paradise
Back in Bangkok - staying at a gay and Lesbian friendly hotel , and spent most of the first day recovering from the flight. The next day we went and picked up my tailored suit! Went to chutachuch markets (they are huge !) .
Day 2 we headed out early to the tiger temple at kunchanabari - to pat the tigers - awesome !
day 3 more shopping - I picked up cool cuffs and a ring at suan lum night bazaar - after watching Thai boxing we walked there !
The shop owner had heaps of kutchi and afgani silver and said most people didn't buy it as they didn't know how to wear it !!!the picture is me about to go to the airport - I wore all my jewels so they wouldnt way down my bag !
Friday, September 29, 2006
Last day in Egypt
I will be sad to leave - but I am totally homesick!
My last lesson with madam nagwa was great - but she gave me her cold ! So I had to spend most of the next day in bed. And then some.... :(
We ventured out in the afternoon and took a taxi to the blue mosque - a really beautiful but decrepit mosque in the back streets of old Cairo. Its a fatimid mosque with imported Turkish tiles from isknik ! Very old and beautiful . We were allowed to climb up the minaret a tiny claustrophobic stair almost falling apart ! They where pretty wild ! But the view from the top was pretty bloody amazing. Around the minaret is Islamic Cairo - the old city , you can see up to the citadel and down to the mosque of a gori (where the sufis dance) and all the way out to the giza pyramids.
We walked back to the khan al khali via the old gate (bab al zwala) - though the rough old streets getting lost and dodging donkeys scooters and the occasional car. Past all the furniture makers and stuff . The people look at us and say hello but there's few shops her so not many touts. We got some directions of a young school girl as we were a bit off course !
I get the rug I had my eye on and we head home to bed as we are both still a bit sick .
Yesterday (Thursday) We headed back to uptown Zamalek for some serious shopping, on the metro -I like the metro , we've got the hang of it now and unlike the taxis there's not any push for money - extra tours whatever ! Zamalek is more upmarket - the marriot and sheaton hotels are there along side most of the embassy's. There are trees on most of the streets and large gardens . Its an island in the middle of the Nile. We managed to get to all the places I wanted to visit - bookshops, the fair trade centre ( were the money actually goes back to rural community's and women) and I Had fun shopping ! We hooked up with a dancer friend danellia and had some coffee , dragged her to listen to music and look at fabulous uzebictani fabrics - but i have to admit I think I'm actually in fabric overload now - I did not buy anything !
We grabbed some dinner and took her to the khan al khallilli (she couldn't go by herself) to mahmouds shop with all the dresses and around all the craziness and into the centre at fishwallis teahouse to have shisha - thursday night is "magmoon" - crazy its the Arabic Friday night and everybody is at the khan - we are packed into fishwallies with what feels like every person in Cairo .
I hear the call of drums and follow ............ There are a few people up near the mosque playing drums and clapping , mucking around. There's this girl - man she was gorgeous - no English , but she is itching to move , mucking around with her friend - who wont play with her!
She comes up to us we answer each other a little - trying to speak - she wants me to dance , I'm not really comfortable with this - its public - the edge of the khan al hallilly right next to a mosques in the first week of Ramadan - she has a crazy look in her eyes !
But hey I'm not here for long I follow her lead - but quietly - my friend is well not so quiet , but its ok for a minute them froooooooooooooooooooooom. We are surrounded by a mass of people (mostly young men ) clapping and singing its ok not theatening just fun, but the potentioal danger is there - I get the feeling this could turn nasty quick. So I chicken out , I grabbed the girl , gave her a big kiss , saying inti hellwa (your are beautiful) but la ! I signal to bear lets get out of here !
she grabs my danelle (who has no fear ) by the arm and drags her though the crowd of boys (10 deep I'd say - but I did not stop to count) They let us go but follow abit - they like danelle keep on calling her shakira ! But they don't hassle too much - they now its over !
we jumped in a taxi and head for home - that was amazing, dancing at the khan al kallili !!!!
but its just not done here !
Tuesday, September 26, 2006
Madam nagwa
Well we are back in Cairo and I'm taking lessons from madam nagwa sultan!
http://www.gildedserpent.com/articles27/edwinanagwasultan.htm
We ran into another belly dancer from Australia, Perth - Lisa - aka ZIZI she's been kind enough to let me tag along on her trips to mustafa esberiv....... s shop in the khan al karlili - FIVE floors of belly dance costumes !!!!!!!
I was good I 've only bought a few things - an assuit dress and belt and a long beaded full dress - in a cloudy Greeny blue cooler. I've wandered around the khan for days - but bought only some jewelry (massive silver Bedouin earrings mmmmmm). Karen we have the cartuosh - it looks great!
I am in the process of lessons with nagwa, up to lesson number 3 , I've learnt more sharqi in three days than I ever learnt in Australia. Her style is the old school classical shaqui - no folk please! First lesson was her version of the basic steps for each rhythm: maksuom, malfoof, shimmy,taksim. This is good, her son plays drum while she and I dance in her apartment its great. She corrects all my steps but says she loves me like her daughter ! (she's a smooth operator- i wasnt expecting the kiss though !). To learn the steps with the rhythm makes perfect sense to me as then you know how o dance to the music - I hate seeing dancers who dance over the music - on top of it rather than with it - hard to describe but its true!
So its officially Ramadan yesterday - we took the metro to zamalek (the island in the middle of Cairo) and went up the tower to see the view then kicked around the art gallery till about 2 ish when they shut.
The metro on the way back was crowded - the 2 front carriages are women only but jam packed with people heading home for ramadan breakfast (they fast all day). Then between 4 and 7/ 8 the street is empty - totally !
We watched the sun set and heard the call to prayer at about 6, but ist still very quiet which is really surreal in this busy buslting city were its normally hard to find a palce to sit and dangerous to cross the road . Me were picked up and shuttled to madam n's house for lesson 2 (revision and a choreogphy. I'm lucky I'm sharing the ride with a Swiss dancer, danellia who is doing 2 hours a day so I also get to watch her class, I get feed and given drinks - its all part of the process .
This morning we walked down to Mohammad Ali St and bought a pretty drum and a mizmar for bear ! Tonight we do henna tattoo and maybe zagatt !
http://www.gildedserpent.com/articles27/edwinanagwasultan.htm
We ran into another belly dancer from Australia, Perth - Lisa - aka ZIZI she's been kind enough to let me tag along on her trips to mustafa esberiv....... s shop in the khan al karlili - FIVE floors of belly dance costumes !!!!!!!
I was good I 've only bought a few things - an assuit dress and belt and a long beaded full dress - in a cloudy Greeny blue cooler. I've wandered around the khan for days - but bought only some jewelry (massive silver Bedouin earrings mmmmmm). Karen we have the cartuosh - it looks great!
I am in the process of lessons with nagwa, up to lesson number 3 , I've learnt more sharqi in three days than I ever learnt in Australia. Her style is the old school classical shaqui - no folk please! First lesson was her version of the basic steps for each rhythm: maksuom, malfoof, shimmy,taksim. This is good, her son plays drum while she and I dance in her apartment its great. She corrects all my steps but says she loves me like her daughter ! (she's a smooth operator- i wasnt expecting the kiss though !). To learn the steps with the rhythm makes perfect sense to me as then you know how o dance to the music - I hate seeing dancers who dance over the music - on top of it rather than with it - hard to describe but its true!
So its officially Ramadan yesterday - we took the metro to zamalek (the island in the middle of Cairo) and went up the tower to see the view then kicked around the art gallery till about 2 ish when they shut.
The metro on the way back was crowded - the 2 front carriages are women only but jam packed with people heading home for ramadan breakfast (they fast all day). Then between 4 and 7/ 8 the street is empty - totally !
We watched the sun set and heard the call to prayer at about 6, but ist still very quiet which is really surreal in this busy buslting city were its normally hard to find a palce to sit and dangerous to cross the road . Me were picked up and shuttled to madam n's house for lesson 2 (revision and a choreogphy. I'm lucky I'm sharing the ride with a Swiss dancer, danellia who is doing 2 hours a day so I also get to watch her class, I get feed and given drinks - its all part of the process .
This morning we walked down to Mohammad Ali St and bought a pretty drum and a mizmar for bear ! Tonight we do henna tattoo and maybe zagatt !
Friday, September 22, 2006
Return to Cairo
Well the Cairo bus left Nakari about 6pm (7 in reality) We spent the morning snorkeling round the nakari house reef. I am actually able to see the coral and the fish without panicking too much now so its very enjoyable- I may even try to go snorkeling at home.
We have made friend with every body at camp including a loverly Egyptian couple who are honeymooning at nakai - we travel with them back to Cairo. Sad goodbyes at nakri to mandy,penny,brian and ali - the other geusts and mido wave us big goodbyes. The couple get us on the non tourist bus - we travel at staff price - he is the accountant for nakri , his job is" cost control" this is an ongoing joke with us and his wife who has a great sense of humor . I danced with her a little at camp , she is a siadi girl and says my baladi is very good so we have become good friends and they teach us a little Arabic everyday !
my favorite saying for the moment is "fil mish mish"- when the apricot blooms - its like saying when pigs fly. And it makes Egyptians laugh when you are haggling with them. Its a very long journery by bus - we arrive in Cairo at 6 am in the morning , but on the way we are feed and bought tea by our lovery traveling companions - they really know how to look after you.
I have to get them a present - they wont take any money but maybe we will go to there house for tea in Cairo
The desert at night
Our last big masa al alam adventure - we took a truck out to wadi gameel - the national park. I literally mean took a truck - we sit in the back of an open trayed truck on some mats with the manager of camp nakari - mido - its late afternoon and the trip takes about 40 Minutes . No body uses seat beats in Egypt - only for a brief minute when passing a tourist police check point!
On the way we see heaps of truck like ours full of camels (all sitting down ) its amazing they just sit like that on a normal tray truck for transport, there is a big camel market nearby.
We arrive at the front of the national park and take the dirt track into the desert for a couple of kilometers, the colour of the sand is a black to dusty sand gradient , black on top with the pale sand showing underneath. We are surrounded by mountains , I am told these are the result of Tectonic plate movement they are bare (there are only a few shrubs, and the occasional tree) in the distance they continue for miles fading too blue with sharp lines like a paper cut outs. Closer you can see the green mineral deposits - maybe copper ? - the landscape is stunning.
The wadi is a dry river bed , it floods maybe ever ten years and apparently the desert springs to life , flowers and goes green. But the floods can be very dangerous. We get to the tent, the Bedouin offer us the traditional welcome drink - I choose karkadi (cold hibiscus tea ) we are sat down on big pillows and watch a DVD (surreal to be in a tent in the middle of nowhere and watch a digital projection) about the park ,the people and the land.
We join a larger group of Dutch or German tourists , for a camel ride, each camel is lined up with a person to handle two camels , the camels are dressed up with big tassled saddle bags. It takes a while to get everybody on and up. As the camel stands the slope of the body is pretty steep !
The sun is setting as we arrive to the camp, our camel handler is pretty frisky he keeps wanting to go faster , we trot for a bit buts its hard work. The bayd men have set up a traditional coffee making ceremony. "gabbeh" he roasts the green beans over a fire, then in a mortar he adds ginger and cardamom, placing this in a small ceramic vessel he puts it in the fire until it boils up and out of the spout. He serves in tiny cups with sugar -only odd numbers, we have several coffees and they make bread, like damper but big and flat in the hot coals. We are served this with the most delicious fresh camel cheese (with oregano and olive oil) yum.
There is a baby camel traveling with us and he takes a shine to bear, the men show her how to play with the camel- they seem to love to play, they seem so gentle.
Its dark now and we must head back to the main tent- torches highlight the bugs on the ground , they see a scorpion in kill it - covering it with a stone. We get back on the camels and head back. The camel cart at front and the riders behind, the men start singing, the leader on the camel cart calls out and the handlers answer, its beautiful, the stars are so numerous the songs are magical ! We have some on tape.
We reach camp -the main tent and are feed a huge feast - including camel meat, okra, tahini and desert! After dinner the men go outside and sing and dance for us - a marcial arts dance with swords and Shields , they jump up high like masi tribesman - of course I got up and had a go ! Fun, I cant jump nearly as high as they can !
We have more coffee - its really very yummy.
Then back on the truck and we head back to masa alam - around 11pm. A magical night !
Thursday, September 21, 2006
Camp Nakri
Well the "holiday really begins here. Camp Nakari is well 5 star camping - all meals provided, our hut has electricity, and the shared toilet/showers are the cleanest I've used so far. The manager - (Mohammad ) Mido for short is loverly and relaxed. The first day I just took easy caught up on sleep and in the afternoon went to the "house reef" - the camps private bay to have a bit of a go at snorkeling - I saw two lion fish not to mention coral , warm turquoise water and very shallow and easy. Bear went out with the group snorkel to see dugong and turtles - she said it was amazing.
Day two we went to samadii- in the national pak 40 minutes by boat to "dolphin house and we literally dropped ontop af a huge pod of 40 spinner dolphins ! - they make an unforgettable sound its just amazing. I'm not very good at snorkeling yet - I get mild panic attacks when I see how deep the water is, but there are no waves. But we are well looked after our guide takes us to snorkel across the reef then we get picked up by the zodiac and taken back to the big boat for lunch. Another snorkel round the reef more dolphin (little baby ones) and then home for a rest for a while and more food - snorkeling makes you hungry.
The third night we just take it easy - out to house reef for a paddle in the morning but in the afternoon we go by truck to wadi gammel (in the desert - national park) for a Bedouin cultural experience.
Day two we went to samadii- in the national pak 40 minutes by boat to "dolphin house and we literally dropped ontop af a huge pod of 40 spinner dolphins ! - they make an unforgettable sound its just amazing. I'm not very good at snorkeling yet - I get mild panic attacks when I see how deep the water is, but there are no waves. But we are well looked after our guide takes us to snorkel across the reef then we get picked up by the zodiac and taken back to the big boat for lunch. Another snorkel round the reef more dolphin (little baby ones) and then home for a rest for a while and more food - snorkeling makes you hungry.
The third night we just take it easy - out to house reef for a paddle in the morning but in the afternoon we go by truck to wadi gammel (in the desert - national park) for a Bedouin cultural experience.
luxor again
for the belated post - we have been down by the red sea - scuba diving (yes the shock will pass soon.) I have a lot to tell but had no internet access for more than 4 days !
My 2nd lesson with Khairiyya Marzin went even better - she has taught me the basic steps, and we have worked out a non verbal communication system. She says "good" alot - I think she is being polite but bear says she likes my dancing.
The gwazzee style basic step is very much a twist of the body manufactured by the lifting of the knee and a swing of the hip. I think I have it now, its a relaxed and soft style but the breaks and hits make sense to me and it fits with the music well.
She is disappointed I cant stay for tea as I have to rush back to the hotel to jump in the shower (gets pretty sweaty dancing in luxor) . We have pick up arranged for our transport to masa alam - south of hurgada - we have to go in a convoy - leaving at 2pm about 2 buses 4- 6 mini busses and a few cars full of tourists escorted by police along the high way like some kind of crazy race all the drivers justly constantly for first position we reached camp nakari by 9 or 10 at night.
My 2nd lesson with Khairiyya Marzin went even better - she has taught me the basic steps, and we have worked out a non verbal communication system. She says "good" alot - I think she is being polite but bear says she likes my dancing.
The gwazzee style basic step is very much a twist of the body manufactured by the lifting of the knee and a swing of the hip. I think I have it now, its a relaxed and soft style but the breaks and hits make sense to me and it fits with the music well.
She is disappointed I cant stay for tea as I have to rush back to the hotel to jump in the shower (gets pretty sweaty dancing in luxor) . We have pick up arranged for our transport to masa alam - south of hurgada - we have to go in a convoy - leaving at 2pm about 2 buses 4- 6 mini busses and a few cars full of tourists escorted by police along the high way like some kind of crazy race all the drivers justly constantly for first position we reached camp nakari by 9 or 10 at night.
Thursday, September 14, 2006
ghawazia !
Following my passion for dance - In luxor I wanted to do some lessons with Khairiyya Marzin, from the famous "banat marzin" ! Thanks to Edwina nearing fabulous articles
http://www.snakeskin.com/edwina.htm
and the newer
http://www.gildedserpent.com/articles25/edwinakhairiyyastruggles.htm
I have been able to contact her. This morning I had my first lesson She is the definite article, sadly maybe the last ghawazia, others in her family do not dance and she herself is pretty retired, teaching only foregners.
Alas she did not want me to video the lesson - maybe she was feeling self conscious today.
Her style is soft "shway " slow, but works so well with the music (traditional upper Egyptian music - very much like musicians of the Nile) . She makes it look so relaxed and easy -like all good dancers.
Its hard to communicate as my Arabic is not really up to scratch - and she speaks very little English. But she showed my pictures of her family, herself as a young dancer, Edwina and the many other dancers who have come to take lessons or taken her to there country. She has such big eyes!
I go again tomorrow, I only hope I can retain the style in my body memory.
http://www.snakeskin.com/edwina.htm
and the newer
http://www.gildedserpent.com/articles25/edwinakhairiyyastruggles.htm
I have been able to contact her. This morning I had my first lesson She is the definite article, sadly maybe the last ghawazia, others in her family do not dance and she herself is pretty retired, teaching only foregners.
Alas she did not want me to video the lesson - maybe she was feeling self conscious today.
Her style is soft "shway " slow, but works so well with the music (traditional upper Egyptian music - very much like musicians of the Nile) . She makes it look so relaxed and easy -like all good dancers.
Its hard to communicate as my Arabic is not really up to scratch - and she speaks very little English. But she showed my pictures of her family, herself as a young dancer, Edwina and the many other dancers who have come to take lessons or taken her to there country. She has such big eyes!
I go again tomorrow, I only hope I can retain the style in my body memory.
aswan is tayib!
tayib is the Arabic word for good (I don't know how to say awesome). We returned to luxor tonight after spending most of the day in Aswan. I went there on a pilgramige of sorts - to the temple of phiae (agilika) The main temple to Isis in Egypt. The temple itself has been relocated as the island it was on was flooded in the process of damming the Nile. So it was moved stone by stone to a new island made to be similar.
We went to the island early to avoid the hot sun but the day was pretty mild anyhow. The island also houses the temple of hathor with so beautiful friezes of animals playing musical instuments. It can only be reached by boat so like aswan the pace of travel slows down to match the river.
The temple is a must see. The architecture is exquisite , rows of columns toped with interteratly carved tops. Being on an island it slill hold a peaceful atmosphere (I touched the shrine for a blessing- I feel very lucky)
Back to aswan we had a few moments to spare so we went to the Nubian museum - which was a good thing to do in the middle of the day ( air conditioned) The museum is very modern , has great signage (not like the Egyptian museum) . The collection is well presented and takes you on a journey though a Nubian town back through to Islamic art, phronic Egypt and Paleolithic stuff (so many goddess figures I've lost count) .
We did a brief entry into the souk and bought some cool Bedouin gear from this fantastic carpet shop down the corner from our hotel (the orchida) and met with ayman akman ( faith and patience bazaar) I wanted to take his whole shop home! It was full of carpets and he had excellent Bedouin gallabeyas ( handstiched women's dresses) .
Aswan was a nice change of pace from luxor partly because of the culture - its a nice mix of Nubian and Arabic (with some coptic Christians just for diversity) , partly because its a smaller city but mostly because we were delivered into the hands of an excellent guide /fixer and arranger of travel - sabry abd el kader- who arranged everything for us and made our stay in aswan "hassle free" .
The day before aswan we spent traveling on the train (not so hassle free) some accident made the train 3 hours late so things were hot and slow, frustrating. I like travelling by train, you can go to the end of the carriage and have a cigarette when you want, long journeys serve food, tea, cold drinks- you also get to "see " the country, the farms the houses, how people live.
But tonight I'm very happy - I'm back at the nefertiti in luxor, Right in the middle of the souk, within view of the luxor temple (which we visited a few nights ago) .
Sunday, September 10, 2006
Train to luxoooor
Well the train ride was good we left at 7.30 in the morning and got here at around 5 . Traveled though egypts country side in air conditioned comfort. Contrary to popular belief its not all sand out there - the trip to luxor follows the Nile along so I saw farmland, dates, maize, vegetables - ordinary Egyptians going about there daily life.
We got to the hostel in time to sea the sun set over the west bank amide the minarets and the call to prayer I saw a small hawk that swooped down and crossed our path.
Luxor is hot and again "under reconstruction" our hostel is nice but lacking hot water. Early this morning we went on a "tour" to the west bank saw some amazing tombs, the temple of hatshepsut (the woman who became a pharaoh) and this pair of really large seated figures - the colossus of memnon.
it so strange to se this stuff for real - i've seen a lot of it in art history books -
images of hathor - the goddess as a cow with a crown, Isis, anubus huge and I mean HUGE heads on columns just stunning stuff. But all experienced in the heat and the dust my timing is allittle out - they tell me October is better - the tour was good - we had an airconditioned car to hide in in between monuments.
about 400 in the afternoon - to hot to go out anywhere so I'm here chilling out upstairs (on the roof) with the other travelers with the fans on full and in the shade. The souk is interesting but full of hagglers who pounce on tourists at every moment its very in your face. I am learning to deal with it all slowly bit by bit -my Arabic is improving.... But I'm pretty tired so I think ill take it easy tonight.
Saturday, September 09, 2006
Cairo food and more
Food in Cairo is "tayib" - good - in fact its great. Street vendors and taxi way are very cheap and yummy. There's two staples kushari and fuul, kushari is a mix of lentils, rice, onions and noodles, with lemon and tomato sauce- its about 2 pounds at tiny little takeout joints and is the kind of food you can live on forever!
Fuul are little deep fried things -like flatter tastier falafuls - again sold by little shops and street vendors they are about 25 peistas (1/4 of a pound !) they are served with flat bread or on there own and with and combination of sauces, babaganush, grilled eggplant etc.
you eat mostly at night when its cool enough to stomach anything, in the day you snack on juice, nuts and bread.
yes the Cairo jazz club was good - we went a little to early (not used to eighteen time yet and still a bit jet lagged. There was no cover charge, so the food and drink are a little expensive (only by Cairo standards ) We went home before it really kicked off which is a pity.
today's adventures went better ! Although they started off a bit out of sorts. I wanted to spend the day in air conditioned comfort, so i thought id go check out the museum of Islamic art. But when we got there it was well " under renovation- " much of Egypt is it seems at the moment ( we couldn't get in and we stuck out in the hot sun - at midday - you certainly know it !
We ran into a bunch of Spanish speaking tourist who were in the same boat but had been wandering lost for an hour! - they were happy to here bear speak Spanish !
So we jumped in a cab and headed to the "citadel" A large group of mosques and museums and gardens etc - much of it was also closed for - renovation but what we saw was extremely beautiful. The mosque of Mohammed Ali a vast Turkish style mosque with huge high ceilings and the most marvelous lighting system . A huge (and I mean HUGE) chandelier hangs from the centre surrounded , no orbited by large circular concentric bands of metal suspending smaller round glass lights (each about as big as your head) . We had a loverly conversation with some young Arabic women - I think they wanted to practice there English - and prefer to speak to woman. They wanted my opinion on Cairo, the mosque everything - I was really nice to talk to them- they were sooo sweet!
The view from the citadel over Cairo is spectacular - today was clear and hot - you could see the giza pyramids !! minarets and domes as far as the eye can see !!!
The smaller mamaluk mosque in the same complex was more interesting architecturally- large arched like an echer sketch painted in bands , the top had very stepped geometric lines, we got some great photos. The citadel has lots of buildings , old traditional houses formal gardens......
everything you can ask for. It seemed like it was a real visit spot even for Egyptians it was full of family's having picnic's , kid running around It felt like a Sunday picnic ! I guess it is the day off (Friday is the holy day - also family time.
We ended the day but walking down from our hotel (after a shower to de dust) and walking down elbustan street , picking up some fuul and mango juice (yum) ! and eating it in the gardens at the end of the road watching tea local kids play soccer ! - very relaxed we ambled back to the hostel via the shay (tea) house, shopping for stuff stocking up on pastries,nuts and drinks for tomorrows long train ride.
Pretty hot though and the only time to go is in the day !
Friday, September 08, 2006
sufi dancing
It's all a bit blurry with the jet lag leftover from the flight. Last night we went to see the
sufi dancers at the " mausoleum al gori" - very near the khan al kharlilli. They were great - the show went for ages and was free, a lot of waiting round getting hot and bothered before hand but hey it work it - they put on an excellent performance, the hammed it up I'm sure. I saw them more than ten years ago in Canberra. The music was spectacular overwhelming ...........
spent today wandering round the khan al halilly (in the sun - probably better to go in the evening but there's too much other stuff to do! The khan is huge miles of stuff streets of coppersmiths, clothes, silver , dead stuff spices all assembled Cairo style a crazy abundance covered in dust, with huge earthworks , holes, mud, crowds and heat - totally amazing.
we take so much for granted in our life us Australians are really very lucky moslty well off and we have the dole.
No such thing exists in Egypt, everybody is in "business" dealing , wheeling or networking. There are many street stalls all over the city, from shoeshine to tea, clothes etc - just spread out a tarp and lay out your goods. Or carry them to people.
Cairo really comes alive at night I am staying at the Sara inn - very central close to the museum, the river, downtown everything. The staff are very friendly, Its very "shabby sheik" . The owner is a Bedouin (I'm sure most people in Cairo say this to tourists ) and has told us some great story's.
sufi dancers at the " mausoleum al gori" - very near the khan al kharlilli. They were great - the show went for ages and was free, a lot of waiting round getting hot and bothered before hand but hey it work it - they put on an excellent performance, the hammed it up I'm sure. I saw them more than ten years ago in Canberra. The music was spectacular overwhelming ...........
spent today wandering round the khan al halilly (in the sun - probably better to go in the evening but there's too much other stuff to do! The khan is huge miles of stuff streets of coppersmiths, clothes, silver , dead stuff spices all assembled Cairo style a crazy abundance covered in dust, with huge earthworks , holes, mud, crowds and heat - totally amazing.
we take so much for granted in our life us Australians are really very lucky moslty well off and we have the dole.
No such thing exists in Egypt, everybody is in "business" dealing , wheeling or networking. There are many street stalls all over the city, from shoeshine to tea, clothes etc - just spread out a tarp and lay out your goods. Or carry them to people.
Cairo really comes alive at night I am staying at the Sara inn - very central close to the museum, the river, downtown everything. The staff are very friendly, Its very "shabby sheik" . The owner is a Bedouin (I'm sure most people in Cairo say this to tourists ) and has told us some great story's.
Tuesday, September 05, 2006
Late night flight to Cairo
Well, we got the on the plane at 1.30 in Bangkok, arrived here at 600 am in the morning. Cairo is and isn't everything that has ever been said about it. Not as busy as Bangkok, the heat is dry and pervasive.
Everything is run down even the new things. It has its charm still , from where I write I can here the call to prayer, see rooftops as far as I can see... A crumbling dirty dusty city. Here the trafic down below on the street .
Lots of hecklers and touts every moment on the street is "la shockram" (no thanks) and it gets a bit in your face its good practice for me its going to be month of it ! The egyptions can be so charming when they want to be. Everyone is freindly but for a westerner a bit too freindly,
I geuss its like junk mail when people you dont know personaly start offering you deals and calling you sister you know your in trouble. The easiest way is just to say no but then you feel rude, mean spirited. But its so constant here it wheres you out, hardens you.
Haven't slept nearly enough but I will just have to catch up , I'm taking it easy , drinking vast amounts of water and saving my energy for the jazz club tonight, If I can last the distance it should be a good night.
Monday, September 04, 2006
one night in Bangkok
Well our second night in Bangkok really, but hey I could not resist !
Its busy busy busy here a city full of tuk tuk s motorcycles, a driver's fercund mass of humanity mixed with plants and animals of all kinds. We arrived late last night to the dodgyest guest house in priority ! Walk up far too early - those who know me well will think this an impossibility- but no one gets up until 10 am on a Sunday - so I had difficulty finding a coffee this morning - finally convincing some street seller to give me his ice coffee mix (hot) in a pure form with some sugar ! (strong but sweet !)
Any how walked down to the green Buddha temple but Sunday is sacred day - all the monks are praying so -no go , We got hussled into going on a tuk tuk tour - which was at first fun , like a big roller coaster ride around the city, we got taken to several buddas , the black Buddha the standing Buddha -etc . The standing Buddha was pretty amazing - huge. We got some flowers and placed them at a pretty statue of kwan yin . Bear bought some birds in a cage which we let go to "bring luck" The temple is full of tiny stray cats - they are everywhere.
Then we got taken to a tailor, several touristy shops with big price jewelry , silk etc ...............
we kept asking the driver to take us to the sky train , but he was pretty smooth , ust one more head say , ok but then the sky train..... But always just one more , around 2 ish we were feeling like were were being railroaded, another silk shop and no thanks we just left by the back exit and payed the tuk tuk driver and said no more - we are walking.
So we are in the middle of Bangkok on foot , tired we go in a mall buy a map and some food, a towel (we didn't bring one) and work out how to get back to the hostel.
we got back in one piece - we really were not that far away I'm pretty sure the tuk tuk driver had been going round in circles!
The area we are in is china town / little India so we headed into the fabric market, the Indian section - bellydancer heaven .
I found a karli shop !!!! Some great statues -we bought a cd , I want the whole shop but hey - this is the first day so I limited myself to a CD and a big batik of her - she will be traveling with me in more than just my heart!
Word to the wise when staying in budjet accommodation in Bangkok bring your own loo paper (I'm glad we did )
Monday, August 28, 2006
Friday, August 11, 2006
Wednesday, July 26, 2006
ebay addiction
Just finnished making these!
I am over my ebay addiction!
But it was all so easy , login, click...bid...
I was eddicted ! so we made these stickers up and have put them on ..... you guessed it ebay
heres a link to it
Wednesday, June 28, 2006
Wednesday, June 14, 2006
kali
I'm fascinated with the Hindu goddess kali. I've just finished carving this face for my garden from an old wood block that was kicking around. Finished reading the book "children of kali" by keven rushby, a good read. His thorey in a nutshell is that the "thuggees" did not really exist , our understanding of this goddess and her place in the world is distorted by fear and misinterpretation.
according to the wikipedia
"Kali is a feminine form of "Kala," meaning "time." It also means "black." So therefore, Kali has been translated variously as, "She who is time," "She who devours time," "She who is the Mother of time," "She who is black.""
for some she is the "Ultimate Reality and Source of Being".
she's been my patron goddess for more than 10 years. As a cynical westerner she's about the only deity I can believe in - change the essence of life.
Wednesday, June 07, 2006
New art
Just finnished artwork for a new wine label - hand drawn submerged submarine.
the client did not like it - he thinks it looks to much like moby dick!
back to the drawing board- dam.
Im the meantime I've been playing with flash and xml and revamping my site. Im hopping for an easer to use interface - bit more user freindly but still a bit of fun and unique.
have a look if you like http://home.iprimus.com.au/flow/newpix/pixelmorph_06_02.html
Wednesday, May 10, 2006
Cold days and slow days
Design is such a strange job, one day your on top of the world doing great, the next your client sends you several publisher files and wants to know why you didn't use the clip art???
I hate publisher- its really not a design program , and knowing how to use a design program DOES not make you a designer.
Its cold and windy, makes me drag the chain, I just don't feel like doing much........
I've just finnished up some sites - o'breinrich
and a bellydance site which is kind of lush tribaljewels
so for the first time in ages I actuly have a bit of time off and I'm not sure what to do with myself, Pixelmorph
has been flat out since october last year, I've been juggling multiple clients and a range of jobs from wine labels to websites. My learning curve is still huge.
But I yearn to be a bit more creative - weird
I hate publisher- its really not a design program , and knowing how to use a design program DOES not make you a designer.
Its cold and windy, makes me drag the chain, I just don't feel like doing much........
I've just finnished up some sites - o'breinrich
and a bellydance site which is kind of lush tribaljewels
so for the first time in ages I actuly have a bit of time off and I'm not sure what to do with myself, Pixelmorph
has been flat out since october last year, I've been juggling multiple clients and a range of jobs from wine labels to websites. My learning curve is still huge.
But I yearn to be a bit more creative - weird
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)