Thursday, September 14, 2006

aswan is tayib!


tayib is the Arabic word for good (I don't know how to say awesome). We returned to luxor tonight after spending most of the day in Aswan. I went there on a pilgramige of sorts - to the temple of phiae (agilika) The main temple to Isis in Egypt. The temple itself has been relocated as the island it was on was flooded in the process of damming the Nile. So it was moved stone by stone to a new island made to be similar.
We went to the island early to avoid the hot sun but the day was pretty mild anyhow. The island also houses the temple of hathor with so beautiful friezes of animals playing musical instuments. It can only be reached by boat so like aswan the pace of travel slows down to match the river.
The temple is a must see. The architecture is exquisite , rows of columns toped with interteratly carved tops. Being on an island it slill hold a peaceful atmosphere (I touched the shrine for a blessing- I feel very lucky)
Back to aswan we had a few moments to spare so we went to the Nubian museum - which was a good thing to do in the middle of the day ( air conditioned) The museum is very modern , has great signage (not like the Egyptian museum) . The collection is well presented and takes you on a journey though a Nubian town back through to Islamic art, phronic Egypt and Paleolithic stuff (so many goddess figures I've lost count) .
We did a brief entry into the souk and bought some cool Bedouin gear from this fantastic carpet shop down the corner from our hotel (the orchida) and met with ayman akman ( faith and patience bazaar) I wanted to take his whole shop home! It was full of carpets and he had excellent Bedouin gallabeyas ( handstiched women's dresses) .
Aswan was a nice change of pace from luxor partly because of the culture - its a nice mix of Nubian and Arabic (with some coptic Christians just for diversity) , partly because its a smaller city but mostly because we were delivered into the hands of an excellent guide /fixer and arranger of travel - sabry abd el kader- who arranged everything for us and made our stay in aswan "hassle free" .
The day before aswan we spent traveling on the train (not so hassle free) some accident made the train 3 hours late so things were hot and slow, frustrating. I like travelling by train, you can go to the end of the carriage and have a cigarette when you want, long journeys serve food, tea, cold drinks- you also get to "see " the country, the farms the houses, how people live.
But tonight I'm very happy - I'm back at the nefertiti in luxor, Right in the middle of the souk, within view of the luxor temple (which we visited a few nights ago) .
sorry about any spelling mistakes - its late and i am tired (12.00 am)- no one in egypt can spell either - check out this menu - made us laugh!

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